Did I claimed something else?
The German guide is also a bit more comprehensive - that’s why I linked it mainly.
In this case you’ve already lost if you use their devices, because obviously they could have added many root certificates or modified other things, where TLS cannot protect you.
A much better situation is if you use your own device in their WLAN: If a connection fails, because they intercept it the HPKP report may be triggered and sent. If this does not succeed the Browser can still try it again - at some point you maybe use another Wi-Fi network.